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Hey, I have been trying to tune in my bow, but it has been shooting slightly erratically. I have heard about bare shaft tuning, so I thought that might be a worthy venture. After comparing my bare shaft to fletched ones, the bare shafts were consistently shooting low and tailing up severely. Is moving my nock the best way to remedy this? Or is it more important to have a good, square centershot? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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I was just at the range and some guys were bare shafting. I stripped my vanes off one and joined them. They said move your rest around and follow your arrow. I would say move your rest down or your nocking point up depending on where your arrow crosses your riser at.
I had to move my rest out a little and got them touching at 20 but I'm over spined.

Just picturing the flight in my head though you would think if your tail is high you would want to move the rest up
 

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It depends on a few things.
Form will throw bareshaft tuning off right form the start and you will be fighting a battle you wont win until you have proper form
If you can post a picture of you at full draw ,from head to toe arrow level i can evaluate it for you and maybe get you shooting bareshaft and fletched together .. Also include a pic of 2 bare shafts and 2 fletched shot at a distance of 5 yards and then at ten yards
 

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Diagnosing tuning via the web is a tough nut to crack. Pics may help but as stated, form can make a perfectly tuned setup look like a poorly tuned setup.
 

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hey nuts and bolts

I hate to refer you to another site, but the nuts&bolt thread here will give you the best explanation of what to do first, second, third.....

I would follow his tune process and then move to the bare shafts.....I read this front to back this morning and can say that if you follow his process, you will get all issues resolved. I will be doing this on my C34 with the Ray Knight conversion once I get a cable slide from Lancaster.
 

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hey nuts and bolts

I hate to refer you to another site, but the nuts&bolt thread here will give you the best explanation of what to do first, second, third.....

I would follow his tune process and then move to the bare shafts.....I read this front to back this morning and can say that if you follow his process, you will get all issues resolved. I will be doing this on my C34 with the Ray Knight conversion once I get a cable slide from Lancaster.
His stuff is golden. The man is a goldmine resource.
 

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My bare shafts alway hit right of field points, even with John tuning my bow or myself. Shortened dl 1", bang money. Form can throw them off and you bow may be tuned perfect, but if your dl is off it will change bare shafts.
 

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The incorrect draw length can and does mess with a lot of aspects of shooting.
 

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Forgive me for tuning (pun!) in late here but the reference to nuts'n'bolts is accurate. I learnt to tune my OK Archery ABS38 with him during some 1-1 instruction and it just works. I recently bought another bow but discovered the DL just wasn't what I needed and so had to put all my kit - sight, rest etc back on the ABS38. Tuned it to something acceptable at 9yds in the basement but was noticing a hard tailing left on the bareshaft. I only bareshaft tune. So confirmed what I suspected, at the range.

At 20yds my fletched (OK Archery arrows, .19, Aerovane IIIs) arrows were dead on but my bareshaft - 10" to the right and 4" up. I reduced the DL by 1/4" and the bareshaft was 2" to the right and very slightly high. I also noticed that I had forgotten to install my drawstops and so as well as having too long a DL I must have been adding to the excessive elbow rotation that nuts'n'bolts attributes to right hand misses. On the ABS, because of its design, I generally leave the rest dead center to the string and the nock dead center of the axles.

For high/low misses it's a process of adjusting the pull of the top axle. I only adjust one, that way I minimize the chasing of my tail. For very fine tuning I then turn to twists in the cables (something I can do by hand with the ABS38) or tiller tuning. This way I can go out to distance and make very fine adjustments that are usually only height related with the occasional left or right hand bias on the cable twist (usually just a turn).
 
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