I have an 06 Ross RH set at about 67#. I am shooting Easton Light SPeeds 400 cut to about 27" weight 374g. I have grinded the trophy taker down and now am so far right I am afraid my fletching is going to get into the riser. THe hole went from a major tear left to a decent tear when I got the rest all the way to the shelf. Is there anything I can do to take the center shot back out.
Can't get rest far enough right to take the left tear out
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http://www.lawleroutdoors.com/Article.a ... me=Archery
read thru this and see if it helps. check your idler for lean. check your grip. I am by no means very good at this but you should be able to get this fixed by looking at this webpage. also double check your spine of your arrows. you might be to weak or stiff.
plenty of good people to help you here.
welcome to rossville.
BRU
read thru this and see if it helps. check your idler for lean. check your grip. I am by no means very good at this but you should be able to get this fixed by looking at this webpage. also double check your spine of your arrows. you might be to weak or stiff.
plenty of good people to help you here.
welcome to rossville.
BRU
Thank You I printed it off and am going to do some baby powder test. I think I am gettting contact. My center shot is a 1/4 inch to the right of center. There is no way it is suppose to be this. My Draw weight is 67 arrow length 27 tip weight 100 Easton lightspeeds 400
Yeah I have thought the same thing. The only thing is Shot an Epic 400 and it did the same thing. My friend gets bullet holes with his bow and these arrows set at 70. I am going to set it up again today and start all over. New nock different rest.DougK said:
I think it may be in the idler yoke. check and see if the idler is lined up with the string. someone here can tell you which side of the string it is suppose to favor.
I fought a different brand bow for about a year with torque issues so take a look at your form. you might want to try the baby oil trick on your left hand and see if your hand placement changes as you draw. that was my problem. i really liked the bow but it didn't like me. it was the driver!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
BRU
I fought a different brand bow for about a year with torque issues so take a look at your form. you might want to try the baby oil trick on your left hand and see if your hand placement changes as you draw. that was my problem. i really liked the bow but it didn't like me. it was the driver!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
BRU
I finally got it. The center shot ended up being 1 1/4" off the shelf and 5/8 off the riser. Everything with the center shot had to go up from wwhere it was. I guess I was eithe getting shelf or rest contact. I also put a turn in the right side of the yoke. Took a few twist out of the string that I had put in there. Bullet hole now. Thanks guys for helping out and being nice to the new guy. DEER30
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Glad you got it figured out.
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Glad that you were able to get it fixed up! If you have a left tear I have found from some recent personal experience that it's a good idea to check the axle to axle length on both sides of the bow. Depending on the bow (I haven't tried to tune a Ross yet, so I don't know how centered they need to be coming off the idler) you may have a bit of string angle coming off of the idler wheel in order to get both sides of the ata to be in spec. I had tried to set my string coming off the idler on my current bow so that it came off straight, and I had the worst left tear that would not go away. I too tried to move my rest to the right until I was about to get fletching contact (I may have been at that point) and decided something else had to be wrong. I was off by 1/4-3/8" too long on the left side. So I put a bunch of twists on that side of my yoke and brought it back to where it needed to be. My left tear all but disappeared. My ata was now correct, and I do have decent string angle coming off of the idler, but it's also shooting very well. So, I hope that helps someone in the future so that they don't spend hours upon hours trying everything until they find it's something that is a rather quick fix like I did.
To fix a left tear, add twists to the left side of your split yoke, and take twists out of the other side if possible. Do the opposite for a right tear if it's not going to go away with rest movements.
To fix a left tear, add twists to the left side of your split yoke, and take twists out of the other side if possible. Do the opposite for a right tear if it's not going to go away with rest movements.
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